Mary Janes Slipping at the Heel? Fit Fixes That Actually Work

The quick answer: If your Mary Janes fit in length but slip at the heel, tighten the strap one hole or move it higher on the instep, add a gel or suede heel grip, and use a half or 3/4 insole to take up the extra volume. Vivi Hart's stylists also suggest round or almond toes and block heels under 2.5 inches, because these stay on more reliably than other styles.

Mary Janes are back in fall rotations everywhere. You see them with tights, cropped trousers, midi skirts and chunky socks. They also cause a very specific kind of frustration. The shoe is technically the right size, but your heel lifts with every step, the sides gap open, or the strap leaves a red line across your foot by lunch. The good news is that almost all of these problems come from volume, strap position or heel height. Size is rarely the cause, so you can fix them without returning the pair.

Here's the short version of the process. Each step is explained in more detail below.

1. Find out what's actually wrong: the heel slips, the sides gap, or the strap digs in.
2. Adjust the strap first: tighten it one hole, add a hole, or check whether the strap sits too low on your foot.
3. Add a heel grip inside the back of the shoe to close the gap between your heel and the counter.
4. Add an insole (half, 3/4 or full) to take up extra volume and push your foot back into the heel cup.
5. Pad the strap with a cushion strip if it pinches. Moving the buckle tighter just makes it worse.
6. Choose toe shapes and heel heights that stay put when you buy your next pair.

Why do Mary Janes slip off the heel even when they're the right size?

Mary Janes slip because length is only one part of fit: heel width, instep height and how stiff the back of the shoe is matter just as much, and a single strap can't make up for all of them. If your heel is narrower than the shoe's heel cup, or your instep is lower than the last the shoe was built on, your foot moves forward and up with every step.

This is very common. A 2018 systematic review in the Journal of Foot and Ankle Research found that between 63% and 72% of people in the studies it analyzed were wearing shoes that didn't fit their feet properly in width or length. A shoe can match your size number and still be the wrong shape for your foot.

Mary Janes make this more noticeable because there are no laces. The strap is the only adjustable part, and it sits across the instep, not around the ankle. It holds the middle of your foot down but does very little to keep your heel in the cup. Add a stiff new leather counter that hasn't softened yet, and you get the familiar lift-and-slap with every step.

How do you fix Mary Janes that are too loose?

To fix loose Mary Janes, start with the strap, then add a heel grip, and finally an insole if there's still extra space. Work in that order, because each step takes up less volume than the next and you don't want to overcorrect.

Strap first. Tighten it by one hole and walk around for five minutes. If you're already on the last hole, a cobbler can punch an extra one for a few dollars, or you can use a leather hole punch at home. A snug strap should let one finger slide underneath without effort, but no more than that.

Heel grip second. Self-adhesive heel grips (also called heel liners) stick to the inside back of the shoe and fill the gap between your heel and the counter. Suede or microfiber grips add friction and are less visible in open styles. Gel grips cushion better if the back of the shoe also rubs. Put the grip slightly above where your heel lifts out, not at the very bottom of the shoe.

Insole third. If your whole foot moves around inside the shoe, the shoe has too much volume. A 3/4 insole with a slight arch raises your foot and holds it in place, which also pushes your heel deeper into the cup. A full insole takes up the most room and is best for shoes that are a true half size too big.

Where should a Mary Jane strap sit on your foot?

A Mary Jane strap should cross the highest point of your instep, where your foot starts to slope up toward the ankle. If it sits there, it locks your foot back into the heel. If it sits lower, toward your toes, it can't stop your heel from lifting.

This is the most overlooked fit factor, and you can't change it after you buy the shoe. That's why it's worth checking in the fitting room. Stand up, put your weight on the foot and look down. If the strap lands on the flat part of your foot near the toes, the shoe will probably always slip at the back, however tight you buckle it. Styles with a higher strap or a T-strap hold the foot much more securely.

"Fit a Mary Jane at the end of the day, standing up and wearing the socks or tights you'll actually wear with it. The strap should rest across the top of the instep. If it sits closer to your toes, no heel grip will fully fix it."

— As fashion stylists often note

This advice is worth taking seriously in colder months. In fall and winter you'll probably wear Mary Janes with tights or socks, which take up a little room. A pair that slips with bare feet in the store may fit perfectly over 60-denier tights in November.

How do you stop a Mary Jane strap from digging in?

To stop a strap from digging in, loosen it and stop relying on it to hold your foot. Let a heel grip or insole keep your foot in place instead, and add a thin cushion strip to the underside of the strap. A strap that digs in is almost always a sign that it's being pulled too tight to make up for slipping somewhere else.

If you have a high instep, look for wider straps (1 inch or more), padded or elastic-backed straps, and buckles that sit to the side and not on top of the foot. A good cobbler can also stretch a leather strap slightly or move the buckle. Foot pain is common, so don't just push through it. The American Podiatric Medical Association's 2014 Today's Podiatrist survey reported that 77% of Americans had experienced foot pain, and ill-fitting footwear is one of the most frequently mentioned causes.

Breaking in helps too. Wear new leather Mary Janes around the house with thick socks for 30–60 minutes at a time over a few days. The strap and counter will soften and shape to your foot.

Which toe shapes and heel heights stay on best?

Round and almond toes with low block heels, roughly 1 to 2.5 inches, stay on best. They spread your weight evenly and don't push your foot forward the way a steep, narrow heel does. The higher and thinner the heel, the more your foot slides toward the toe, and the more your heel lifts out of the back.

• Round toe: the classic Mary Jane shape and the most forgiving. It leaves room for toes, so your foot doesn't get pushed back and out.
• Almond toe: slightly more polished and still secure. A good option for office wear with tailored trousers and midi skirts.
• Pointed toe: elegant, but the narrow front can push wide feet back into the heel and make slipping worse. Size carefully. Styles like the Adelaide Pointed Toe Pumps work best with a heel grip already in place if you have narrow heels.
• Square toe: roomy and very on-trend. It stays on well if the strap sits high.
• Block heel: much more stable than a stiletto. If you like a little height, a sturdy block like the Anna Denim Block Heels shows how a wider heel keeps you planted.
• Platform sole: adds height while reducing the actual pitch of the foot, so there's less forward slide than with a regular heel of the same height.

If you plan to stand for hours at events this season, our guide to holiday party heels you can actually stand in covers heel heights in more detail. You can browse current silhouettes in our women's shoes collection.

How do you keep wearing Mary Janes through fall and winter?

To wear Mary Janes in cold weather, pair them with opaque tights or fine-knit socks. The extra layer adds warmth and fills a little of the volume that causes slipping. Choose leather or suede over patent if you'll be walking on wet pavement, and treat them with a water-repellent spray before the first rain.

Styling helps with fit as well. Ankle socks with a slight texture, like ribbed cotton or merino, add grip at the heel. Mary Janes with socks look best with cropped trousers, pleated skirts or a cozy knit like the Ariana Bow Knit Cardigan, which matches the sweet, slightly preppy feel of the shoe. For more cold-weather layering, see our sweaters and jumpers. If you're having trouble with hem lengths over your new shoes, our piece on wide-leg pant inseams for petites explains which lengths show off a strap without swallowing it.

Finally, rotate your pairs. Leather needs about 24 hours to dry out between wears. A pair worn every day loses its shape faster, and a stretched-out counter is one of the main reasons Mary Janes start slipping halfway through the season. See what's just arrived in women's new arrivals, and finish the look with pieces from our accessories and jewellery.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should Mary Janes be tight or loose?

Mary Janes should feel snug at the heel and across the instep, with about a thumb's width of space beyond your longest toe. You should be able to slide one finger under the strap without effort, and your heel should lift no more than about a quarter inch when you walk.

Do heel grips actually work on Mary Janes?

Yes. Heel grips work well when your heel slips because it's narrow or the counter is still stiff. They don't fix side gapping or a shoe that's a full size too big. In those cases, use a 3/4 or full insole instead.

Should I size down in Mary Janes?

Only size down if your toes have more than about half an inch of space in front of them. If the length is right and only the heel slips, keep your usual size and fix the volume with grips or insoles. Sizing down usually leads to cramped toes.

Why do my Mary Janes slip only on one foot?

Most people have one foot that is slightly larger or shaped differently from the other. Fit the shoe to the bigger foot, then add a heel grip or thin insole only to the shoe that slips.

Can a cobbler make Mary Janes fit better?

Yes. A cobbler can add strap holes, move a buckle, stretch tight leather, pad the strap or fit a permanent heel liner, usually at a low cost. They can't fix a strap that sits too low on your foot, so check that before you buy.

Are Mary Janes good for wide feet?

Mary Janes can work well for wide feet if you choose round or square toes and an adjustable buckle strap. Avoid narrow pointed toes and elastic-only straps, because they can't be loosened when your feet swell later in the day.

Ready for a pair that stays put all season? Shop Mary Janes, block heels and fall-ready shoes at vivihart.com, and enjoy every step from October to March.